Zucchini Shōjin

Is it possible to escape from the world while we cook? Concentration required by knife cuts to get uniform zucchini dice or the pause we make when tasting a sauce requires our full attention. But there is a step beyond escaping or relaxing when cooking. It is using the cooking session as a meditation exercise. This post and its companion recipe explore the techniques of Shōjin cooking.

In 2014 I was fortunate to attend the workshop Zen Cooking for Body and Mind  in New York taught by the monk-cook Tanahashi Toshio. In the sessions, the principles of Shōjin Ryori, the cuisine of the Zen temples of Japan, were applied. Although our work focuses on Mediterranean cuisine, several of the recipes on this website (Tomato Tartare, Spelt Berries with Greens e.g.) are influenced by that experience. During the last months I have taken up the concept and techniques of Shōjin Cuisine to create a series of recipes connected to our culinary context.

In Japanese, the word shōjin (精進) means serenity. More exactly, it indicates the withdrawal from the profane world to find clarity and serenity.  Shōjin Cuisine is part of the Zen meditation-in-action techniques and curiously it resonated in my mind when I heard words such as uncertainty, uneasiness or concern. Words uttered by friends, colleagues and neighbors who, like all of us, are going through these pandemic times the best way we can.

In our work we used the techniques of Shōjin cuisine, adapting them to local ingredients and the culinary tradition of the Mediterranean. In this first recipe, zucchini are wrapped in a sesame sauce, but instead of looking for a Japanese flavor profile, we have based it on Mediterranean tahini made with raw sesame, sea salt and lemon juice.

Zucchini Shōjin consists of small packets made with wrapped zucchini slices and stuffed with vegetables and nuts. Take a look at the main photo to see the final finish.

Preparation of ingredients involves delicate work that must be done thoroughly.

To achieve the clean finish we aim at we must cut the zucchini into longitudinal slices with a vegetable peeler. We need four sheets for each packet. They must be very thin and whole, without breaks or uneven areas.

We will keep all leftover trimmings to use in the filling. That is one of the principles of Shōjin cuisine: Zero waste.

We are going to steam the slices for three minutes, not one more, not one less.

 

On a square mold of about 3-4 inches side we are going to place the already cooked sheets with care. Two at the bottom and two more on top placed perpendicularly. It is very important to place them overlapping one sheet with the other just half an inch so that the wrap is completely encased.

This is the more technical part since now we can fill the container with the vegetable mixture (see the details in the recipe), fold the sheets and unmold the package by turning upside down the container on the serving plate.

The result is a very delicate dish, with a serene and attractive presence. The creaminess of  zucchini combines with the texture of the vegetables and the crunch of  pine nuts. The sesame and lemon give the dish summery aromas and the flavor of  pine nuts accentuates its Mediterranean character. It is a simple, almost austere dish that looks like a gift and generates gratitude. Frankly, I don’t know if you enjoy more making or eating it.